Bracketed by the biscuit-brown Wither Hills and the lofty prongs of the Richmond Ranges, Blenheim’s vast blanket of the Wairau Plain bursts with possibilities. When it comes to winery finery, few venues can hold a candle to the elemental elegance of Wither Hills Cellar Door & Restaurant. Exuding a mix of contemporary design and relaxed sophistication, coupled with soul-rinsing views from their four-storey tower; the Wither Hills Winery is pitch-perfect for a wine tasting and bite to eat. I met up with Steve from Explore Marlborough Wine Tours for lunch at Wither Hills, noshing on king prawns and parmesan arancini; salt and pepper squid; and BBQ eggplant. They do lip-smacking small and share plates or larger portions if you’re not in a sharing mood.
Be sure to take a stroll among the vines in the Vine Library, showcasing several dozen varieties; and savour the sublime Barrel Hall, a sensory treat with the seductive scent of oak and yeast. I also enjoyed a great wine tasting, sipping and swirling my way through a single vineyard wine flight. As the national powerhouse of Sauvignon Blanc, try Wither Hills’ Rarangi 2021, where minerality, sea salt and lime form the backbone of this delightful sav blanc. I also love their Taylor River Pinot Noir, which is a fruit-forward, light bodied pinot, bursting with plums, cherries and oak spice. For bubbles, you can never go wrong with Daniel Le Brun.
Wither Hills Winery. Photo / Destination Marlborough
Steve and I then headed over to Vines Village, which is homebase for Explore Marlborough’s wine tours. They offer a great range of options, included guided or self-guided tours. Kitted out with a trusty e-bike, over the next few hours, we tootled our way around the vineyards, mostly on off-road trails, including the fabulous stopbank of the Wairau River, which serves up elevated views of the vast bucolic canvas. www.exploremarlborough.co.nz
Highlights included Forrest Estate Wines, home of the Doctors. John and Brigid Forrest led successful scientific research and medicine careers, but in the late 1980s, they ventured into wine-making. This distinguished family winery is located on the stunning grounds where the Forrest family grew up. The Cellar Door is a family-friendly, dog-friendly venue with lovely, leafy grounds. The Doctors range have been purposely designed as light alcohol wines. All below 10%, these wines still deliver a full flavour explosion in your mouth! I love their Pinot Gris.
But my biggest highlight was tasting the glorious wines of Hans Herzog Estate, widely acclaimed as one of the best wineries in New Zealand. Hans planted Pinot Gris, Viognier and Montepulciano over 30 years ago - rarely seen varieties in New Zealand at the time. Today the 11.5 hectare vineyard is densely planted and a complex patchwork of 26 different grape varieties, produces some of New Zealand's most treasured organic wines, adhering to both organic and bio-dynamic principles. All grapes are handpicked and the uncompromising dedication for tending to his vines produces wines layered with texture, complexity and purity. The effervescent Cellar Door Manager, Sharon guided me through a truly superlative tasting and a fascinating tour of the intimate estate. It is no wonder that Hans Herzog’s small-batch artisan wines are snapped-up by discerning wine-lovers, worldwide.
Hans Herzog vineyards. Photo / Hans Herzog
The Marlborough Wine & Food Festival is fast approaching. New Zealand's longest-running wine and food festival is now in its fourth decade. It’s next outing is set down for February 8. Blenheim accommodation will book out, so lock in your in plans, pronto.
Despite Marlborough’s blockbuster reputation in the grape stakes, it’s not just wine that this plucky region produces with such panache. Blenheim’s thriving craft beer scene froths with discoveries. One of the popular boys on the block is Boom Town Brewing Company, turning out crisp, smooth, easy drinking craft beers. There’s the Alabama APA, Whites Bay IPA, Marlborough Lager, Baby Boom Pale Ale – and the big-selling, Pelorus Pilsener. Ship Cove Stout is well worth a try, too. The Boom Town Beer Garden is a popular go-to for fresh tap beers, sun and relaxed vibes in the warmer months, right through to late April. It’s now known as Boom Town in the Forrest – operating in a splendid park-like area at Forrest Estate Wines.
Boom Town beers. Photo / Destination Marlborough
Add to your craft parade DNA Brewery, the Fancy Cow bar and restaurant, with sweeping views across the wreathed landscape. (Be sure to say Hi to the friendly Highland cow, Fanta.) DNA Brewery (Dave and Ant) was established by legendary brewer Dave Nicholls and creative oenologist, Ant Moore. Dave is one of the New Zealand craft scene’s pioneers. He told me that he first started brewing as a 14 year old! His classic beer styles are faultlessly divine. I particularly enjoyed DNA’s Azacca Hazy Pale - bursting with passionfruit, while his Irish Red Ale is very malt forward with sweet toffee characters.
Just off Rapaura Road, on Jackson Road, pay a visit to the leafy, lawned surrounds of Moa Brewery. Open Thursday through Sunday, it’s a wonderful venue and the food trucks accentuate the ambience during the warmer months. Now entering its fourth decade, what I particularly like about their range is that they have kept their products affordable, accessible and sessionable, while also switching up their repertoire. A stellar example of that is their Apple & Rhubarb Cider. Exuding a seductive red hue, the delicate tart flavour of this crisp cider sings happy summer days. It’s like the cider equivalent of a glass of rosé. Hazy IPA’s are all the rage in New Zealand and Moa’s sessionable hazy, at 4.9% alcohol, is the easy-drinking Motueka Hazy IPA.
I also enjoyed a great gin tasting at the Vines Village, sampling the delights of Elemental Distillers in the Roots Gin Shack. Founded by Ben Leggett and Simon Kelly this craft distillery delivers premium craft spirits and liqueurs with complete transparency of all ingredients, processes and production, from root to cup. Garnering accolades aplenty, Roots Marlborough Dry Gin is a crisp and robust ‘London Dry’ style gin, bottled at a bold 45% alcohol by volume. It was crowned ‘World’s Best Gin’ at the 2023 World Gin Awards. I met up with Ben at the recently opened Roots Gin Shack and Tasting Room, which is a wonderful venue, combined with a garden setting for leisurely indulgence. Enjoy a signature G&T or a negroni on tap, while the menu also spans seasonal cocktails, exquisite wines and curated selection beers. Gin Shack have mixed up the distillation game with some delicious fare from the talented team behind Boom Sauce, Spice & Barbeque. The mouth-watering small plates and irresistible snacks complement their gin creations. Definitely try their grapefruit and gin sorbet!
Roots Gin Shack eats and drinks. Photo / Roots Gin Shack
While at Vines Village, extend your exploratory and check out the Cheese and Cheers venue. This charming operator showcases an extensive range of New Zealand craft whiskies, and international brands, paired with three matching cheeses and bread. Order up a whisky tasting flight, with assorted cheeses. Don’t mind if I do. For great evening dining in Blenheim, I’m a big fan of Franks Oyster Bar & Eatery. This buzzing Scott Street establishment, under the command of Sam Webb, has an old-school New York bar vibe, with lots of tiles and industrial light fixtures. Despite its name, Franks delivers so much more than Marlborough’s magnificent molluscs. Share plates run the gamut from Merino lamb shoulder and grilled zucchini to jerk chicken and venison tartare. Can’t choose? Plump for the Frank Eats option and celebrate the feast of curated flavours.
Where to stay? Scenic Hotel Marlborough enjoys a prime perch, gracing the edge of Seymour Square. Flawlessly maintained with resplendent flower beds and crowned with the war memorial clock tower, it’s my all-time favourite New Zealand town square. Not only is the Scenic Hotel Marlborough perfectly poised in the heart of town, but this stylish property features superb facilities including a spa, pool, sauna, restaurant and bar. You’ll enjoy superb service, free wifi, complimentary car parking, spacious air-conditioned guestrooms with flat-screen SKY TV and super-comfy beds, swathed in their signature Kiwi-made wool and down bedding. www.scenichotelgroup.co.nz
Scenic Hotel Marlborough exterior. Photo / Scenic Hotels
Mike Yardley is our resident traveller on Jack Tame Saturday Mornings.
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